So I sneak out of the winery barrel room and persuade Andrew’s son, Ollie — who is studying winemaking and works as a bartender — to pour me a taste. Margan Jr tells me it’s Australia’s first single-estate, vintage-dated vermouth: the base wine (2015 semillon), the fortifying spirit and most of the botanicals used to enrich the vermouth with their spicy, herby complexity were grown and made on the property. It’s bloody good, too: punchy fragrant green aromas, nice citrusy hint of sweetness, good, tongue-gripping bitterness. It makes me think of making a martini, but Ollie — who is a professional mixologist, after all — suggests a drink he calls the Hunter Gatherer: equal parts vermouth, aged rum and lime juice, topped with some rosemary-infused honey. Yum. The vermouth ($50 a bottle from cellar door) isn’t the only new development at Margan. I’m also really impressed with the 2016 albarino ($40), a debut vintage for this Spanish white grape in the Hunter, that tastes a bit like a young semillon but with some extra lovely, waxy yellow fruit weight; and the 2014 Breaking Ground tempranillo graciano shiraz ($40), a supple, dangerously slurpable red that picked up the international judge’s trophy at last year’s Hunter Valley Wine Show.