Margan 2017 Albarino ($30): The popular Iberian white variety albarino has had a controversial time in Australia, with much of the original intended planting now recognised, correctly I presume, as the French variety savignan, which is not to be confused with sauvignon blanc. Anyway, if this wine is anything to go by, albarino has a tremendous future here as a leading aromatic variety, certainly a better bet than most pinot grigio. This Hunter Valley dry white shows the variety’s renowned apricot character but I also pick up a blast of Asian spices, including what I interpret as a good dose of ginger. I’d love to try the wine with some spicy Vietnamese or Thai cuisine — or perhaps even some fiercely hot Szechuan crab or chicken.
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