Wonder why the water tastes so clean? It’s rainwater, collected from the restaurant rooftop, then filtered and served at the table – natural and fee. Little is wasted here.

Margan’s “estate grown ethos” makes the most of its vineyard, orchard and one-hectare kitchen garden , which flourishes just beyond the dining room windows. Grilled pumpkin with kale pesto and house-made creamy stracciatella curd tasted as fresh as the day it was harvested. Crisp-skinned duck with pureed parsnip and beetroot in a red wine jus capitalises on Margan’s own medium-bodied Barbera, while quinces poached in Margan Vermouth with Hunter Belle ash brie mousse and a refreshing pear sorbet would make anyone feel right at home. And yes, that is winemaker Andrew Margan enjoying a drink at the next table.

Read more about the 2022 Good Food Guide here.